Ball Pythons

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Ball pythons (Python regius) are native to West and Central Africa, where they inhabit grasslands, savannas, shrublands, and open forests. They spend much of their time sheltered in burrows and other hiding places and are most active during the evening and nighttime hours.

• Enclosure Size: Length + width should be at least the snake's length 
• Typical Adult Enclosure: 36" × 18" × 18" or larger; large adults may need 48" × 24" × 18" or larger 
• Warm Hide: 88–92°F 
• Cool Side: 75–80°F 
• Night Temperature: Above 70°F 
• Humidity: 60–80% 
• Substrate Depth: At least 3–4" 
• Hides: At least 2 — one warm, one cool 
• Young Snake Feeding: Offer approximately once a week 
• Adult Feeding: Offer approximately every 2 weeks 
• Prey Size: About the same width as the snake's widest point or 10–15% of body weight 
• Water: Fresh water available at all times 
• Handling After Feeding: Wait 24–48 hours

These are general guidelines. Individual ball pythons may require adjustments based on their size, age, body condition, and enclosure setup. See the sections below for more detailed care information. 

Ball pythons do best in secure enclosures that provide enough room to move comfortably, thermoregulate, and choose between multiple hiding places. Enclosure size should be appropriate for the size of the individual snake.

A 36" × 18" × 18" enclosure can provide suitable long-term housing for many adult males, while larger individuals—particularly large adult females—may require an enclosure around 48" × 24" × 18" or larger. As a general rule, the combined length and width of the enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. If your ball python can wrap around more than the front and one side of its enclosure, it's time to upgrade to a larger size.

Glass, PVC, and appropriately sized tub-style enclosures can all work well when properly set up. Regardless of enclosure type, provide secure hides, an appropriate temperature gradient and humidity, and enough cover for your snake to feel secure.

Ball pythons need a temperature gradient that allows them to move between warmer and cooler areas as needed. Maintain a warm side around 88–92°F and a cool side around 78–80°F.

Heat can be provided with an appropriate overhead heat source, radiant heat panel, or under-enclosure heating, depending on the type of enclosure. All heat sources should be controlled by a thermostat to prevent overheating and maintain safe, consistent temperatures.

A moderate nighttime temperature drop is fine, but temperatures should generally remain above 70°F. If your enclosure would fall below 70°F overnight, use a thermostat-controlled heat source that does not produce visible light, such as a ceramic heat emitter, radiant heat panel, or deep heat projector. Heating can remain on as needed to maintain safe temperatures, but all visible lights should be turned off at night. Ball pythons need a regular day/night cycle to maintain a natural circadian rhythm. We do not recommend red or other colored nighttime bulbs.

Measure temperatures with digital thermometers or temperature probes placed where your snake actually spends its time. An infrared temperature gun can also be useful for checking surface temperatures, but should not replace a thermometer for monitoring ambient enclosure temperatures.

 Ball pythons generally do well with humidity around 60–80%. Humidity will naturally fluctuate throughout the day. Brief drops below this range are not necessarily a problem, especially if the substrate and humid areas of the enclosure are still retaining moisture.

Measure humidity with a digital hygrometer rather than relying on guesswork. If humidity is consistently too low, using a moisture-retaining substrate, reducing excess ventilation, or adding water to the substrate can help. Avoid keeping the enclosure constantly wet or soggy.

Providing a humid hide filled with damp sphagnum moss can also give your snake access to a more humid area when needed, particularly during shedding.

Choose a substrate that helps maintain appropriate humidity while remaining clean and safe for your snake. Coconut husk, coconut fiber, and appropriate soil-based substrate mixes are all good options for ball pythons.

Provide a substrate layer at least 3–4 inches deep. This is deep enough to retain some moisture and allow your snake to burrow or settle into the substrate. Remove waste and soiled areas as needed, and replace the substrate regularly to keep the enclosure clean.

Avoid cedar and pine bedding, as the aromatic oils they contain can be harmful to reptiles. Paper towels can be useful temporarily for quarantine or when monitoring a health concern, but they do not retain humidity as effectively as loose substrates.

Provide your ball python with at least two secure hides, with one on the warm side and one on the cool side of the enclosure. Hides should be snug enough for the snake to feel secure, ideally allowing its body to touch the sides when curled inside.

Add artificial or live plants, branches, cork bark, and other décor to provide cover and opportunities to explore and climb. Ball pythons may spend much of their time hidden, but they will make use of enrichment and climbing opportunities, particularly at night. Make sure branches and other heavy décor are sturdy and securely positioned so they cannot fall on or injure your snake.

Keep enough cover throughout the enclosure that your snake can move between areas without feeling completely exposed.

Ball pythons should be fed appropriately sized whole prey, such as mice, rats, African soft-furred rats, or appropriately sized birds. As a general guideline, choose prey that is approximately the same width as the widest part of your snake's body, or around 10–15% of your snake's body weight.

Young, growing ball pythons should generally be offered food about once a week, while adults can be offered food about every two weeks. Feeding frequency can be adjusted based on age, growth, meal size, and overall body condition. Ball pythons can become overweight when consistently fed meals that are too large or too frequent.

Adult ball pythons are well known for occasionally refusing food, sometimes for extended periods. A healthy snake can go much longer between meals than a mammal, so food refusal is not necessarily a cause for concern. Continue offering food on the normal schedule and monitor your snake's weight and body condition. Rapid or significant weight loss, abnormal behavior, or other signs of illness should be evaluated by a reptile-experienced veterinarian.

Frozen-thawed prey is a convenient and safe option, but some ball pythons may prefer live prey. Never leave a live rodent unattended with your snake. If your snake does not show interest, remove the rodent to prevent injury.

Provide fresh, clean water at all times in a sturdy dish large enough for your ball python to soak its body in. Replace the water whenever it becomes dirty, and clean and disinfect the dish regularly.

A larger water dish can also help contribute to humidity within the enclosure.

Ball pythons are generally calm, manageable snakes that tolerate gentle handling well. Support your snake's body with both hands and allow it to move freely rather than gripping or restraining it.

Avoid handling your ball python immediately after feeding. Wait at least 24–48 hours after a meal before handling to reduce the risk of regurgitation. New or stressed snakes should also be given time to settle into their enclosure before frequent handling begins.